by Steve Selden | Oct 20, 2010 | Tour News
The temperatures have fallen below the “Churchill” Maginot line. When the mercury finally dips below the 32F degree mark in October, there’s really no looking back until the ice finally breaks out of the Churchill River in Springtime. In the short term, for the next couple of months at least, the temperature drop usually translates to heightened polar bear activity within the Churchill region.
The Churchill Wildlife Management Area is covered with thermokarsts. Colby Brokvist photo.
Thousands of travelers come to view the infamous Churchill polar bears as they have become world renowned. However, we must keep in mind always that these bears descend on Churchill from Northern shoreline points where they abandoned the Springtime melting sea ice. As much as this two month period is prime-time to see polar bears in their natural habitat around Churchill, grave concern for their habitat in the North still demands our undivided attention. Over the past few decades, scientific evidence has shown decreasing sea ice linked to decreasing polar bear body mass and length. A longer ice free period has left polar bears on land for a longer time between spring and fall freeze-up of the Hudson Bay. With extended time off ice ,where they hunt seals for energy and fat reserves, survival rates of polar bears are decreasing. These basic harbingers point to increased concern overall for numbers of polar bears in the Western Hudson Bay population. A sample of this research can be found in an interview with polar bear biologist Andrew Derocher of the University of Alberta this past July on Yale’s Environment 360 website. Good reading.
Meanwhile, soon after guides Brent, Scott and Amy arrived in Churchill with excited travelers, the first polar bear “lift” of the season took place. Guides hurried their groups out to the polar bear compound to see a mom and two cubs of the year (coy’s) taken from the compound and readied for evacuation. The mom was placed in a net and the two cubs were seat-belted in the rear seats of the helicopter. The helicopter lifted off and hovered overhead momentarily then headed out. Kind of ironic for folks to come all this way to see polar bears and here’s Manitoba Conservation taking the bears away up North for release. Even so, all who were lucky enough to view the now-dusted had elated smiles and a unique story to tell.
Out on the snow dusted tundra of the CWMA, more stories were unfolding. Guide Elise had an “epic” day with her folks. In the morning, at Halfway Point, a juvenile male was sleeping in the rocks then rolling around periodically as well as walking along the rocky outcropping. Content with this sighting, the rover moved East along the coast and came upon an amazing sight. A seal carcass on the beach was being devoured by a polar bear. Within a short time, another larger male arrived and then one more came upon the scene. With three polar bears on the seal, stress naturally would arise. Soon two of the larger bears were grappling and sparring on two legs. Not unusual behavior for this time of year but with the bears muzzles and paws dipped in blood, the two bruins were soon splattering each others’ white fur with additional blood. The scene amazed all and some stellar photo’s were captured I’m sure.
Guides Leah and Rinnie at the tundra lodge had their folks viewing a bear rolling around and tumbling at the lodge. Some of the group, on a rover excursion between first tower and Ptarmigan Alley came upon a sow nursing two cubs…..some of the first reported nursing sightings of the season. All kinds of behavior starting to appear now as the season gets into gear.
An Arctic hare hides in the rocks along the Hudson Bay shore. Colby Brokvist photo.
While enjoying drinks and dinner on a night-rover excursion, guide Amy and her group kicked off their first night in Churchill with a beautiful evening on the tundra. A magnificent arctic hare was seen doing all sorts of yoga poses and stretching nestled in a rock outcropping on the coastal road. Relaxing night on the land.
by Steve Selden | Oct 19, 2010 | Tour News
Windy snow squalls and chilled North winds continued their onslaught on Churchill in the early morning. Winter continues to slip into the region most notably with the distinct appearance of ice forming on the edges of all the scattered ponds all over the surrounding tundra. A light dusting of snow covers the area… enough to ease everyone into the revelation that the long, frozen time between now and May or June is on the doorstep.
The Port of Churchill seems to always feel the pinch at this time of year as well. With the need to fill six more ships’ holds before the end of the season, dictated by ice forming in the Hudson Bay, crews are working round the clock to get the job done. It takes about four days to fill all the cargo space in an average size vessel and the port can accommodate two ships at the dock at once. The two at the port now will sail to Italy and Nicaragua in the next couple of days and two of the four ships waiting out at four-fathom hole in the bay will be ushered in via tugboat. The total number of ships for the year is 22… a good season.
A polar bear catches a scent in the breeze. Colby Brokvist Photo
On the land, bear numbers are increasing slightly as the snow and cold creeps in. Guide Sue and her folks covered extensive ground out in the CWMA and crossed paths with nine or ten polar bears. Way out East near ptarmigan Alley, two big male sub -adults lounged about occasionally acknowledging the rover and showing face for good photo’s. Later, after lunch at the tundra lodge, the group had another big male wandering around the rover and glancing up through the grate while sniffing at travelers’ boots.
Gyrfalcons and golden and bald eagles certainly are enjoying the lack of snow as evidenced by the white ptarmigan feathers scattered around the tundra. A banner year for ptarmigan numbers has translated into more raptor sightings, particularly gyrfalcons. The snow moving into the area should provide some respite for their prey. A report also was circulating that a researcher from Polar Bears International observed a golden eagle soar down and nab an arctic fox. It seems this year raptors are determined to take center stage on the food – chain platform. Every year a different species numbers seem more escalated….mother natures way of keeping a balance.
Polar bear alerted by movement near the willows. NHA photo.
Reports from Hudson Bay Helicopters are confirming at least 30 or so polar bears out at Cape Churchill and caribou sightings as well. Many travelers are getting great photographs with the barren tundra as background…a unique perspective for sure.
Guide Paul’s group was almost as far East as you can go in the CWMA and came across a polar bear in the willows quite close to the rover. The group stopped for a hot drink and snacks while the bear lifted his head every now and then for some quality pictures from excited guests. As they headed back to the tundra lodge, Paul picked out a bear through the spotting scope chewing on a willow branch. Seeing these different types of behavior is what it’s all about out on the tundra in their environment..lasting memories. At the lodge area, another male was stretching and moving around giving all aboard both the rover and the lodge a thrill.
Later in the evening Paul and travelers recounted the fantastic day on the tundra while listening to Evan Reeves on guitar in the seaport lounge… perfect ending to a day in the North.
by Steve Selden | Oct 18, 2010 | Tour News
With the precipitation gone, for the time being, the chilly air prevailed under gray skies. A thin layer of snow remains on the tundra..just enough to remind all visitors of the impending Winter.
Polar bear checking out the rover and travelers inside. Colby Brokvist photo.
Out in the CWMA, guide Paul Brown and his first group of travelers were near Halfway Point when they spotted a sleeping bear in the rocks. While watching the big male the group also got a great look at a tundra swan on a small secluded pond surrounded by willows. While viewing the swan through a spotting scope, Paul was able to assist some folks at taking photo’s through the scope to try to use the magnification as a telephoto type lens…this trick often provides excellent results in enlarging animals that cannot be approached at close range.
Later, on their way back to the lodge area, the group cruised by Gordon’s point and got fantastic looks at an arctic hare nestled down in the rocks. Since hares’ hair turns white on its’ internal clock rather than the external weather conditions, the white fur often gives away the animal when snow is not present. I can only imagine the animal feels the same way a human would feel if he or she walked naked in the middle of town.
Paul’s travelers were rewarded in the afternoon when they finally reached the lodge and their polar rover became the object of curiosity of another male polar bear. This gregarious animal walked around and under the back deck of the rover. At times he even stood on his hind legs and leaned onto the rover peering inside at thrilled travelers. Although most of the bears the group sighted during the day were fairly docile, this one was the thrill of a lifetime for most people on board.
A polar bear rests just beneath the grate of the Polar Rover’s back deck. NHA photo.
Meanwhile the day for guide Eric and travelers were shaping up nicely for wildlife viewing. The group viewed six bears throughout the day including one between ptarmigan alley and the tundra lodge. This bear also came under the buggy and sniffed a folk’s shoes through the grated back observation deck. Being that close to these massive animals can surely get the blood flowing…..thankfully inside the skin only.
Other high points of the day included spotting a large bull caribou just before the base of Gordon Point near the first tower. Eric sighted the animal in the distance while scanning the horizon for polar bears. A nice added bonus indeed!
As the energetic group headed back toward the launch, they noticed the shallow thermokarst (ponds) were forming rings of ice around their borders. On one of those ponds, a group of pintail ducks was preparing to head South to beat the weather. Nature’s version of a small suburban airport.
Guide Brad’s group also had a fulfilling day on the land. In addition to a good five or six bears, mostly lounging about, they witnessed one of those bruins, a sub-adult male, posing up on the rocks at Halfway Point with the clouds screaming across the sky just above the Hudson Bay beyond him. After, he walked around the rover and headed off into some willows nearby. Down on the coast nearby, they observed a raft of scoters as well. A tundra swan, possibly the same one Guide Eric and crew spotted was still floating around on a nearby thermakarst….content in its’ serenity.
Topping off a banner day..the group was presented with a regal silver fox in and out of willows…at first glance, it seemed to be a ptarmigan. Nice surprise.
by Steve Selden | Oct 17, 2010 | Tour News
A northern front arrived with cold rain and strong winds of 40-50 mph. By late afternoon, around four o’clock, the rain was trying to change over to snow as winter continued to knock at the door. A dusting of snow covered the tundra by late evening as the winds continued to howl through the region.
The tundra lodge group had an early breakfast and headed into town for some dog-sledding and helicopter flights. Guide Bonnie rounded out her bird sighting list for her group reporting mallards out on the ponds, a common eider, greater scaup, black bellied plover,one greater and one lesser yellow legs and 17 Brandt geese at the edge of the Hudson Bay out by Halfway Point. Helicopter passengers reported viewing 29 polar bears out at Cape Churchill and Wapusk National park. These animals will begin making their way down into the CWMA with the change of temperatures and Winter conditions. One of those already out near the lodge might have been the bear guide Elise reported apparently favoring the use of a rock for a pillow. Guide Colby Brokvist captured the image from a rover day excursion with the lodge group.
A polar bear taking a rest with a rock as a pillow. Colby Brokvist photo
Guide Sue and her folks were out braving the elements observing a couple of male bears out near the lodge. Mostly hunkered down out of the rain… still nice to be in their environment observing what these animals tolerate. Later, the group observed a very clean, white bear at Halfway Point then a notoriously dirty bear around Gordon Point. Those Gordon point bears just don’t bathe regularly.
Another highlight of the afternoon occurred near first tower when Sue’s travelers spotted a bald eagle quite close overhead. Witnessing the flight of such an impressive raptor in the tundra environment is surely a lasting memory.With the day coming to an end, the rover weaved its’ way back toward launch between the shallow thermakarsts (ponds) with choppy water on every surface.
Guide Eric and group, also out in the CWMA, happened upon the first sparring bears of the season in the late morning on the inland road. About 15 minutes of rough-housing thrilled the folks while sipping hot drinks aboard the rover. Another 4-5 bears scattered throughout the day gave the group quite the day on the vast land. Out along the coast, good numbers of eider ducks floated in the shallows. A gyr falcon after snow buntings kept the exciting afternoon going and plenty of willow ptarmigan on the way in finished off a complete day on the tundra.
In town the night music scene was rocking as Kyle Martens, son of Gord and Lynn Martens who own the Northern Nights Lodge, was playing with his band at the Seaport Lounge. Meanwhile, Celtic band Dusty Ryno’s played the Tundra Inn Lounge. Only five months to St. Patrick’s day. Local phenom Evan Reeves, who finished near the top of Canadian Idol a few years back, is in studio working on a new CD. Evan is the grandson of Myrtle DeMeulles a local Metis elder who frequently educates travelers about Metis culture.
by Steve Selden | Oct 16, 2010 | Tour News
With a front approaching from the north, overcast skies were the norm with moderate temperatures. The first dusting of snow vanished as fast as it came though reinforcements are surely mounting in the northern arctic.
Guide Eric and his crew of travelers had a good evening on the tundra in the CWMA..though prior to their excursion they had a memorable experience at the inukshuk by the bay behind the town complex. While stopping to take in the vastness of the Hudson Bay, a frantic flurry of snow buntings swarmed down over their heads, landing on the rocks and beach. Immediately following the flock, a gyrfalcon soared overhead perhaps seeking a meal or two or three…buntings are the arctic version of buffalo wings at a sports bar down South. Just to add a final touch to the scene, a ringed seal peered curiously from the placid bay just offshore.
Later out around the tundra lodge, the group sipped wine with dinner as they watched a polar bear in the willows as an arctic fox meandered by in search of a meal for itself. The distant window lights from the lodge gave it the appearance of a train stopped at a station with no destination ahead. While daylight prevailed, bird-life in the form of large numbers of snow geese and Canada geese were viewed out closer by the bay.
Aside from some polar bears lounging around the tundra lodge, there have been unusual numbers of arctic hares flopping about. Arctic fox sightings have escalated notably in comparison with the past few seasons as well. One of those arctic foxes gave guides Bonnie and Colby and their group on the lodge a unique encounter to watch and photograph. The white fox continuously stalked and darted at a hare and at one point said hare stood on two legs to keep a watchful gaze at the fox. Unsuccessful and frustrated in the hunt the fox backed down and moved on.
Churchill’s Eskimo Museum is a must-see attraction in town. NHA photo.
The lodge folks also witnessed another similar pursuit out on the tundra. A peregrine falcon was attempting to savor a snow bunting meal just like our gyfalconr by dive bombing and scattering the buntings in every direction.
The Eskimo Museum in Churchill has acquired another unique carving from the north..this one from Repulse Bay. The acquisition can be found in the Inuit game display area and depicts a woman playing a string game with her fingers. The museum features one of the largest and most pertinent collections of Inuit carvings in the North. These treasured art pieces have been collected over decades by traveling priests and museum collectors. Truly a hidden gem in this tiny coastal town on the Hudson Bay.
by Steve Selden | Oct 15, 2010 | Churchill News, Tour News
A glimpse of Winter unveiled itself in Churchill today. Sideways blowing snow squalls sailed through Churchill in the morning and gave way to an overcast sky and cool air. The Hudson Bay, not to be outdone, reared up from its’ shallows and hammered foamy breakers against the rocks polished long before Franklin’s time. Still missing.
Guide Elise had her travelers out at Halfway Point in time to observe a majestic male polar bear sleeping amid the rocks leeward to the wind. Northern gusts ripped at the rover and the surrounding tundra. After a good while, as the group observed the animal from about 60 meters away, he suddenly rose and slowly moved to the top of the embedded rocky ledge and gazed out over the Hudson Bay. This moment was by far worth all the effort of searching the CWMA …..truly a majestic sight.
Meanwhile, guide Sandra and travelers observed bears between Gordon Point and farther up the coast road along Ptarmigan Alley. While out in that vicinity the group had the thrill of a male polar bear walking right past the rover, lingering for a while, then moving to a spot out of the wind where he reclined and used a rock as a pillow. All that goose down around and you can’t even use it…ouch.
Polar bears emerging from the willows. Melissa Scott photo.
Countless willow ptarmigan, snow buntings, and ravens dotted the tundra between launch and the lodge on both legs of the journey.
Guide Melissa’s group explored the area around Churchill in the day and then headed out for an evening rover excursion. The day provided prime viewing of a sow and two cubs out in a clearing near the recycle center (L5). Another solitary Male polar bear was sighted in the willows shortly after near Akudlik Marsh area not far from the family group. On the other side of town in the small ponds in front of the grain elevator, Melissa reported huge numbers of Canada (remember, they are not residents) geese, gadwalls and mallards positioning to fly south. With the location of the grain being loaded into the ships just on the other side of the elevator, I’m sure the temptation to stow -away in a vessel’s hold has crossed every one of those suspicious -looking birds minds. The last time I was in Burma I swear I saw a couple of obese mallards walking down the street.
Speaking of ships, there is currently a ship with a Finnish flag loading at the dock with three others moored offshore in the bay. Word is that seven more are left to fill their holds this season….while the bay stays clear of ice. More shipping news to come.
The first polar bear lift of the season saw a mother and cub netted up and flown North to safe haven. Today a sow with her two cubs took their spot in the “Polar Bear Holding Facility” as the spiffy new blue sign reads. In fact many improvements have been made to the quansett hut compound; namely both ends having been refaced with shiny new corrugated metal sheeting….arctic chic! All the wheeled culvert bear-traps have been upgraded with silver paint for the culverts and dark, rich red for the metal frameworks….hey those pesky bears gotta look good when they go in the big house.
